GIANT DISCLAIMER: I am not a doctor, so any advice I give here, must be discussed with your medical professional.
Lately I've been seeing a lot of women who are newly pregnant or trying to get pregnant and they are experiencing acne for the first time in their life. Ahhhh hormones. This does happen because many women when trying to get pregnant have recently gone off birth control, which cause your hormones to readjust themselves. With that said, a lot of women experience a spike in androgens, which equals more oil production, which equals blemishes. Unfortunately, pregnant ladies cannot use the typical ingredients one would use to fight that dang blasted acne.
The 4 major ingredients to stay away from include:
salicylic acid (usually less than 2% is ok)
glycolic acid (some doctors are ok with this ingredient, some are not- usually mild percentages are acceptable)
retinoids (usually there's no negotiating this one)
Benzoyl Peroxide
The other problem women run into when they have a bun in the oven, is pigmentation. This has been dubbed as pregnancy mask, which manifests as brownish spots on the forehead, above the lip, cheeks, or all of the above.
Note: you don't have to be pregnant to experience this delightful condition. It's hormonally related, so often any flux in hormones can create it. It happens most often after a woman has gone on or off birth control, then goes out in the sun. The jury is still out as to why this happens, but it has been linked to a surge in estrogen.
The usual treatment for this condition is a combination of AHA's ( glycolic acid), hydroquinone, and retinol, and of course sunscreen (because the sun or any light brings it out). However, if you're pregnant you can only use one of those ingredients and that is sunscreen.
hydroquinone is a big no no to use while pregnant, as is retinol, glycolic acid is possible based on your doctor's insight.
So what does a gal do if she's expecting and experiencing breakouts and pigmentation?
There are a few ingredients to work with:
lactic acid- brightening, exfoliating, so it helps with pigmentation and acne
licorice root- helps to stop the pigmentation from reaching the surface of the skin
azelaic acid- (mild percentage) anti-bacterial, lightening and brightening. Great for acne and pigmentation.
willow bark- this is what salicylic is derived from, but a milder version. good for acne
enzymes- bromelain (pineapple) papain (papaya)- these guys work like little pac men to come in and eat the dead skin cells. great for brightening the complexion and helping to prevent acne.
mushroom extract & arbutin- helps to stop pigmentation from reaching the surface.
vitamin c- brightening, mildly exfoliating, and further protects the skin.
some products that contain these ingredients:
Is clinical cleanser
Is clinical white lightening serum
Is clinical active serum
- last I checked the entire IS clinical line was deemed safe for expecting mamas, but I would be nervous to use the Youth Complex by them. Before you buy check with your doctor.
other products:
Image's lightening serum -great for irritation, acne, and pigmentation)
Image's hydrating serum - great hydrator and gives your skin a good dose of vitamin c
Image's enzyme mask- use 1-2 times a week to help with pigmentation and acne
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
A word about ingredients...
A lot of people when searching for skin care ingredients fear the ingredient declaration on the back of the product. And rightfully so, it may as well be written Italian. So here is a breakdown of some of the ingredients commonly found in your skin care products. Side note: refer to other posts to get a breakdown of other popular ingredients. In an effort to avoid repeating myself, I won't cover those stellar ingredients in this post. Ok so here we go....
Peptides show up on the ingredient dec as:
Acetyl Hexapeptide- 3 ( also shows up as Argirleline TM). this fella simmers down facial muscles, so they move less. The theory is if muscles move less, less lines show up on the face. This little gem is supposed to be like Botox TM in a bottle. It really isn't anywhere near the caliber of Botox TM, but it does help ease up those expression lines and it works really well to extend the life of your Botox TM treatment.
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide- 4 (also shows up as Matrixyl TM ). This steller feller is becoming known as retinol's sister- meaning it has similar properties as retinol without any of the irritation. This is a great ingredient to be on the prowl for if you're concerned with anti-aging, but have sensitive skin.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide- 7 (also shows up as Rigin TM ). This guy helps to control inflammation. This is good because inflammation ages the skin, so if it's controlled, so are the fine lines, laxity, and dullness that may creep up on your skin as your years creep up.
Minerals:
Copper: anti oxidant- which means your skin is protected to some degree from free radicals. Free radicals age the skin, so you want to be protected from them and they are everywhere. AHHH! This fella also promotes wound healing, so if you want to help your skin to avoid a scar after and injury, use copper!
Selenium- a very potent anti oxidant. Also used to control fungal infections- you'll see it in anti-dandruff shampoos.
Zinc- One of my faves. Offers a great sun protection. It's a physical block between you and the sun. This guy also helps in wound healing and helps to simmer inflammation, so it is great for rosacea prone or acne prone individuals. Honestly everybody can benefit from zinc. loooove zinc.
Others:
Green Tea Extract: potent anti-oxidant. A great guy to have in your skin care. Look for this ingredient in your sunscreen to amp up your sun protection.
Idebenone: Similar to Co-Q-10. Idebenone is more aggressive than Co-Q-10. Both ingredients are potent anti-oxidants, sometimes too potent because some people have found this fella a little too irritating. However, if your skin can tolerate it, it's a great ingredient. This ingredient also helps to lighten pigmentation.
Kinetin- popular in the Kinerase line. This is a plant hormone that helps to protect and regenerate the skin. This is a great option if you're concerned with anti-aging, but your skin is highly sensitive.
Lycopene- a carotenoid that protects the cell. Derived from tomatoes and a great ingredient to be added to your sunscreen.
Reservatrol- Derived from grape's skins. Think wine. This is a great anti oxidant. This guy also calms down inflammation. Woo hoo!
Squalene- derived from sharks and olive oil. This ingredient is designed to match the skin's own sebum and will not clog the pores. This is a great ingredient for acneic skin types who are experiencing extensive dryness due to aggressive skin care products. Also good for dry skin types.
Hyaluronic Acid- A humectant found in are skin naturally. However, as we age we lose oodles of it. Bummer. Babies skin looks so firm and plump due to this magical ingredient. his duded hydrates the skin via water, rather than oil. This is a great ingredient for all skin types!
There are way more ingredients out there, but hopefully this will help you understand your products a bit more. If there is a certain ingredient you have questions on, please don't hesitate to ask. If I don't know the answer, I'll find someone who does. :)
Peptides show up on the ingredient dec as:
Acetyl Hexapeptide- 3 ( also shows up as Argirleline TM). this fella simmers down facial muscles, so they move less. The theory is if muscles move less, less lines show up on the face. This little gem is supposed to be like Botox TM in a bottle. It really isn't anywhere near the caliber of Botox TM, but it does help ease up those expression lines and it works really well to extend the life of your Botox TM treatment.
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide- 4 (also shows up as Matrixyl TM ). This steller feller is becoming known as retinol's sister- meaning it has similar properties as retinol without any of the irritation. This is a great ingredient to be on the prowl for if you're concerned with anti-aging, but have sensitive skin.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide- 7 (also shows up as Rigin TM ). This guy helps to control inflammation. This is good because inflammation ages the skin, so if it's controlled, so are the fine lines, laxity, and dullness that may creep up on your skin as your years creep up.
Minerals:
Copper: anti oxidant- which means your skin is protected to some degree from free radicals. Free radicals age the skin, so you want to be protected from them and they are everywhere. AHHH! This fella also promotes wound healing, so if you want to help your skin to avoid a scar after and injury, use copper!
Selenium- a very potent anti oxidant. Also used to control fungal infections- you'll see it in anti-dandruff shampoos.
Zinc- One of my faves. Offers a great sun protection. It's a physical block between you and the sun. This guy also helps in wound healing and helps to simmer inflammation, so it is great for rosacea prone or acne prone individuals. Honestly everybody can benefit from zinc. loooove zinc.
Others:
Green Tea Extract: potent anti-oxidant. A great guy to have in your skin care. Look for this ingredient in your sunscreen to amp up your sun protection.
Idebenone: Similar to Co-Q-10. Idebenone is more aggressive than Co-Q-10. Both ingredients are potent anti-oxidants, sometimes too potent because some people have found this fella a little too irritating. However, if your skin can tolerate it, it's a great ingredient. This ingredient also helps to lighten pigmentation.
Kinetin- popular in the Kinerase line. This is a plant hormone that helps to protect and regenerate the skin. This is a great option if you're concerned with anti-aging, but your skin is highly sensitive.
Lycopene- a carotenoid that protects the cell. Derived from tomatoes and a great ingredient to be added to your sunscreen.
Reservatrol- Derived from grape's skins. Think wine. This is a great anti oxidant. This guy also calms down inflammation. Woo hoo!
Squalene- derived from sharks and olive oil. This ingredient is designed to match the skin's own sebum and will not clog the pores. This is a great ingredient for acneic skin types who are experiencing extensive dryness due to aggressive skin care products. Also good for dry skin types.
Hyaluronic Acid- A humectant found in are skin naturally. However, as we age we lose oodles of it. Bummer. Babies skin looks so firm and plump due to this magical ingredient. his duded hydrates the skin via water, rather than oil. This is a great ingredient for all skin types!
There are way more ingredients out there, but hopefully this will help you understand your products a bit more. If there is a certain ingredient you have questions on, please don't hesitate to ask. If I don't know the answer, I'll find someone who does. :)
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
Gimme Dat Glow Part Duex
So there are oodles more ingredients out there that can contribute to giving one glowing skin. And I felt somewhat dishonest not posting all of them, or at least more of them, on the last blog, so here comes part duex. Truth be told, if you're not using any of the ingredients mentioned in the last blog or will be mentioned in this blog, and you start using any one of them, you will get dat glow in some form. If you really want to up the glow ante, then use a combination of these glow giving ingredients. Have I used the word glow enough? In the previous blog I talked about AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids); however, AHA has a very important cousin named BHA (beta hydroxy acid). BHA is salicylic acid and anybody who has ever had acne or has watched a Proactive infomercial (a guilty pleasure of mine) has heard of salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is so splendid for acne because it goes in there and helps to purge the pore of the dead skin cells, oil, and bacteria that's in there just waiting to erupt into a large, red nodule. Good times. Salicylic is also exfoliating (which equals glow) and it helps to balance oil production and those struggling with acne, tend to produce more oil than those are blessed with clear skin. Disclaimer: If you have an allergy to aspirin, then this product is not for you, as salicylic is derived from aspirin and if you are pregnant or breast feeding this fella is not your guy. Also when looking at ingredient declarations, salicylic acid shows up as willow bark extract too. In my humble opinion, the two best product containing salicylic acid are: Image's clear cell cleanser and IS Clinical's active serum.- this guy also contains glycolic acid and bearberry (two more glow givers).
My all time favorite ingredient for giving 'dat glow, drum roll please, are: Retinoids (also known as Retin-A, tretinoin). Retinoids are vitamin A. Another version of a Retinoid is Retinol, which is derived from Vitamin A and tends to be less aggressive and is used in over the counter versions of retinol products (ie this version is probably the one used in Loreal's latest and greatest anti-aging cream). If you can tolerate a retinoid or retinol, meaning you're not pregnant, breast feeding, have rosacea, or extremely sensitive skin, you should be on some form of a retinoid/ retinol. period. Why are retinoids so fantastic? So glad you asked. Retinoids essentially teach your skin cells to behave and they stimulate new collagen and elastin- meaning less wrinkles and skin sagging. Retinol and Retinoids are beneficial for dry, acneic, hyperpigmented, and aging skin because they get rid of the old and crusty skin on the surface and bring, healthy, new skin to the top for all of the world to see. Woo hoo! Retinol/ retinoids are very effective, but they can be over used. Many people begin a retinol/retinoid regime and there skin ends up peeling profusely and looking like raw meat. Nobody wins in this scenario because generally one stops using the product and now you would like to go into hiding for a good amount of time. To avoid this scenario, portion control is 50% of the battle- meaning only a pea size and introduce the product slowly (possibly only two nights a week). The other half of the battle: the product formulation. If the product is paired with an emollient (ie shea butter) or a hydrator (ie glycerin or hyaluronic acid), then the irritation factor is cut down significantly. My two favorite retinoid/ retinol products: atralin- this one is rx only and great for oily/acneic skin, but it is very pricey. A great over the counter retinol: Image's Total Retinol A Cream. This guy does his job so well you only need to use him 1-2x a week. Another Disclaimer: You must use sunscreen (preferably zinc based) everyday (even if it's not sunny) when using these products because the sun (even if you can't see it) will try to destroy all of your hard work. There more glow-giving ingredients, but that's all for now.
My all time favorite ingredient for giving 'dat glow, drum roll please, are: Retinoids (also known as Retin-A, tretinoin). Retinoids are vitamin A. Another version of a Retinoid is Retinol, which is derived from Vitamin A and tends to be less aggressive and is used in over the counter versions of retinol products (ie this version is probably the one used in Loreal's latest and greatest anti-aging cream). If you can tolerate a retinoid or retinol, meaning you're not pregnant, breast feeding, have rosacea, or extremely sensitive skin, you should be on some form of a retinoid/ retinol. period. Why are retinoids so fantastic? So glad you asked. Retinoids essentially teach your skin cells to behave and they stimulate new collagen and elastin- meaning less wrinkles and skin sagging. Retinol and Retinoids are beneficial for dry, acneic, hyperpigmented, and aging skin because they get rid of the old and crusty skin on the surface and bring, healthy, new skin to the top for all of the world to see. Woo hoo! Retinol/ retinoids are very effective, but they can be over used. Many people begin a retinol/retinoid regime and there skin ends up peeling profusely and looking like raw meat. Nobody wins in this scenario because generally one stops using the product and now you would like to go into hiding for a good amount of time. To avoid this scenario, portion control is 50% of the battle- meaning only a pea size and introduce the product slowly (possibly only two nights a week). The other half of the battle: the product formulation. If the product is paired with an emollient (ie shea butter) or a hydrator (ie glycerin or hyaluronic acid), then the irritation factor is cut down significantly. My two favorite retinoid/ retinol products: atralin- this one is rx only and great for oily/acneic skin, but it is very pricey. A great over the counter retinol: Image's Total Retinol A Cream. This guy does his job so well you only need to use him 1-2x a week. Another Disclaimer: You must use sunscreen (preferably zinc based) everyday (even if it's not sunny) when using these products because the sun (even if you can't see it) will try to destroy all of your hard work. There more glow-giving ingredients, but that's all for now.
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