In my blogs I usually cover facial, neck, and chest skin. I leave the body skin out time after time. My apologies, body. Well this blog is putting an end to that right this very minute. So with that said, in these cold, dry winter months, people get some serious itchy body skin on their normally silky, smooth skin. I'm here to tell you there are things you can do to redeem your velvety summer skin. Phew, thank the Lord for me. First and foremost, exfoliate. This is exactly what I said to do for facial dryness too. However, you can get more aggressive with the bod because the skin below the chest is remarkably tough.
My favorite exfoliating vehicles:
Riffi Mitts: These feel like brillo pads on the skin. At first, this doesn't conjure up the most pleasant of feeling, but I promise your body will crave it's hurt-so-good approach. You can squirt your body wash right on this guy and scrub away. This fella also works wonders to minimize or prevent in grown hairs. So if you're fixin' to get a bikini wax- use him! Riffi mitts are also superb because they stimulate the lymphatic system, which means you get sick less. These guys are also easy to clean- just throw them in the washing machine, but do not dry. Woo Hoo!
Another, more aggressive, exfoliating tool is a skin brush. If you really like the hurts-so-good feeling, then you will be pleased as punch with this guy. If you think you will not be a fan of the hurts-so-good feeling, I urge you to think about your itchy skin an how much you want to scratch it. Well, this is one big scratch- but in a really good way. Just writing about them, makes me want a rub down. I hope that's not weird. Skin brushes, also are big on stimulating blood flow, which means your body will heal faster. Skin brushes also assist in minimizing cellulite. Whata guy! Technically you are supposed to use this stellar feller on dry skin, prior to showering, but I have to admit, that I am too lazy to do such things. Instead, I throw body wash on it while in the shower and call it a day.
Of course another form of exfoliation, comes in the form of AHA's. If you would rather get a body wash with glycolic, lactic, or malic acid in it, then that could be used in place of a riffi mitt or a skin brush. Or you could go nuts and put your AHA containing body wash on a riffi mitt or skin brush. Bye, bye skin. I wouldn't recommend doing this on a daily basis, but once a week would be a great treatment. A great body wash for this is Image's Ageless Cleanser or Glytone's Exfoliating Body Wash Both of these cleansers work wonders on Keratosis Pilaris- those red bumps on the back of your arms.
My favorite after exfoliation treatments:
After you've exfoliated, whatever lotion you want to apply will work oh-so-much better because you've just removed a layer of dead skin that was acting as a shield to your lotion of choice. As far as body lotions, one of my favorites is Alba Organics Very Emollient Body Lotion for Dry Skin. This lotion has a few AHA's in it, so you're getting an additional exfoliation, but it is a mild one. I like the lotion because it goes on so quick and is not thick and greasy. However, some of you may be after thick and greasy. If that's the case, go for good old coconut oil. Coconut oil is a wonderful emollient and will make your skin glow, plus you will smell, faintly, like the beach. Yes, please!
Happy Scrubbing!!
Thursday, December 16, 2010
Thursday, December 9, 2010
how to extract sir zit
If you spend hours analyzing and digging at your skin, then you, my friend are a picker. Most pickers pick in hopes of doing something to help speed up the healing process or to find some way to control a lesion. I've been there I totally understand the motivation. I understand the urge to pick, but oftentimes picking makes acne worse. Most people when picking, squeeze the pimple, which can actually cause the bacteria to spread to nearby follicles. When bacteria spreads this equals more pimples- exactly what we pickers do not want. Furthermore, most picking causes a scar, which makes it look like the acne is there for far longer than it actually is. With that said, people will still pick. It's human nature. I know better and I still cannot control the urge to get in there. So if you must pick at least pick in a way that warrants the best possible outcome. I've I used the word pick enough?
Here's how to pick (there's that word again):
1. Cleanse your skin in the shower for 1-2 minutes- preferably with a salicylic acid based cleanser. Salicylic acid helps to loosen the debris in the pore, so you can get at it. Salicylic is also antibacterial, so you're lessening the chance of any bacteria getting into the pore you're about to open.
2. If you're feeling extra skin savvy, while in the shower use an exfoliating mask. If you have lots of white heads and several lesions, then do not use a mask with grains or beads. A manual exfoliant can spread bacteria on skin with several acne lesions. However, if you have a few blackheads or 1-3 lesions, then a manual scrub would work. I am a big fan of masks containing alpha hydroxy acids. A few of my favorites: Cellex-C betaplex clear complexion mask. Warning: this mask is not for sensitive skin.
Image's total resurfacing mask. Again, this mask is not sensitive skin. If you have more sensitive skin, go for a mask with enzymes, they are gentle exfoliants. A few great masks containing enzymes are: Image's hydrating enzyme mask and June Jacob's papaya purifying mask. Leave this mask on while in the shower for 10-15 minutes. The steam from the shower helps to soften the pores, so they are more pliable. The more pliable your pores are the less likely you are to rupture a follicle while picking, which means bacteria will not travel to the next follicle over.
3. After getting out of the shower, prepare to extract (aka pick) by wiping down the area of attack with witch hazel. Witch hazel kills the bacteria on your skin without striping it.
4. Clean your hands very well then wrap your finger tips in kleenex to prevent your nails from digging in to your skin and cause scarring as well as preventing any bacteria in your nails from entering the lesion. Instead of squeezing the lesion, come on either side of the lesion and stretch the skin out then apply pressure. Note: cystic nodules are NOT extractable, so don't even try! Only go after white heads and black heads.
5. After you're done extracting, cleanse the skin with witch hazel again, to ensure you've cleaned up any existing bacteria on the skin.
6. Apply an antibacterial, clay-based mask to soak up any existing oil and bacteria. A great mask is Astara's blue flame mask. Leave this mask on for 10 min or over night if you're extracting at night. Note: you may only want to apply the mask to only the extracted lesion because it could be too drying for the rest of your skin. If you don't want to walk around with a glob of clay on face, apply an antibacterial ointment containing sulfur, tea trea or benzoyl peroxide. A few good recommendations for this are: Image's medicated acne lotion. And Good old Persa Gel. Note: both of these products contain benzoyl peroxide, which means they can bleach your linens, so use white linens when using these products.
7. Try not to put any additional products on your newly extracted lesion and keep your paws off of it until it heals!
Here's how to pick (there's that word again):
1. Cleanse your skin in the shower for 1-2 minutes- preferably with a salicylic acid based cleanser. Salicylic acid helps to loosen the debris in the pore, so you can get at it. Salicylic is also antibacterial, so you're lessening the chance of any bacteria getting into the pore you're about to open.
2. If you're feeling extra skin savvy, while in the shower use an exfoliating mask. If you have lots of white heads and several lesions, then do not use a mask with grains or beads. A manual exfoliant can spread bacteria on skin with several acne lesions. However, if you have a few blackheads or 1-3 lesions, then a manual scrub would work. I am a big fan of masks containing alpha hydroxy acids. A few of my favorites: Cellex-C betaplex clear complexion mask. Warning: this mask is not for sensitive skin.
Image's total resurfacing mask. Again, this mask is not sensitive skin. If you have more sensitive skin, go for a mask with enzymes, they are gentle exfoliants. A few great masks containing enzymes are: Image's hydrating enzyme mask and June Jacob's papaya purifying mask. Leave this mask on while in the shower for 10-15 minutes. The steam from the shower helps to soften the pores, so they are more pliable. The more pliable your pores are the less likely you are to rupture a follicle while picking, which means bacteria will not travel to the next follicle over.
3. After getting out of the shower, prepare to extract (aka pick) by wiping down the area of attack with witch hazel. Witch hazel kills the bacteria on your skin without striping it.
4. Clean your hands very well then wrap your finger tips in kleenex to prevent your nails from digging in to your skin and cause scarring as well as preventing any bacteria in your nails from entering the lesion. Instead of squeezing the lesion, come on either side of the lesion and stretch the skin out then apply pressure. Note: cystic nodules are NOT extractable, so don't even try! Only go after white heads and black heads.
5. After you're done extracting, cleanse the skin with witch hazel again, to ensure you've cleaned up any existing bacteria on the skin.
6. Apply an antibacterial, clay-based mask to soak up any existing oil and bacteria. A great mask is Astara's blue flame mask. Leave this mask on for 10 min or over night if you're extracting at night. Note: you may only want to apply the mask to only the extracted lesion because it could be too drying for the rest of your skin. If you don't want to walk around with a glob of clay on face, apply an antibacterial ointment containing sulfur, tea trea or benzoyl peroxide. A few good recommendations for this are: Image's medicated acne lotion. And Good old Persa Gel. Note: both of these products contain benzoyl peroxide, which means they can bleach your linens, so use white linens when using these products.
7. Try not to put any additional products on your newly extracted lesion and keep your paws off of it until it heals!
Wednesday, December 1, 2010
dry skin got you down?
No matter where I live, every winter my skin is dry. I thought with living in rainy Portland, this problem would not occur. No such luck. I have to change my routine up a bit to avoid sir dry skin.
Here are some things you can do to bring that dewy skin back:
First and foremost, exfoliate. If your skin is covered in dead skin cells, you can slather all the moisturizer on you want, but only a small percentage will reach your thirsty skin. Best exfoliants are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Both of these exfoliants hydrate as they exfoliate- two for one! Hooray! If you have more durable skin, aim for the glycolic acid. If you're skin tends to err on the sensitive side, go for lactic. My favorite cleanser that contains glycolic acid, Glytone's mild gel wash. If you really want to shake things up, go for Image's ageless cleanser. My favorite lactic cleanser still remains PCA's facial wash.
After you have exfoliated, your skin is ready to absorb some hydrating goodness. Keep in mind there is a difference between dry skin and dehydrated skin. Dry skin is lacking oil and, often times, water too. Dehydrated skin is just lacking water. Dehydrated skin can be oily, but still be flaky and tight. In the winter most people are both dry and dehydrated, so to combat dehydration go for a serum containing hyaluronic acid, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate (plant derived hyaluronic acid), or B5. I'm a big fan of Image's total pure hyaluronic acid. This product can be added to your cream of choice to up the moisture ante or used as a serum underneath another product. If you're struggling with acne or acne prone, skip doing a serum and cream and go for a hydrating lotion. My all time favorite is Image's Hydrating Anti-Aging Serum. This serum is loaded with goodness. It has has oodles of vitamin c to brighten and protect your complexion. If you're on a budget and desperate for a good hydrator, I'm a big fan of all of CereVe's moisturizers. These can usually be purchased at any drugstore.
If you're truly dry (meaning lacking oil) then you need a cream with emollients. There are oodles of emollients out there. Some of my favorite are Vitamin E ( topherol), avocado oil, carrot oil, olive oil, and shea butter. Shea butter and olive oil can be used on Acne prone skin with out inducing a breakout. Two of my favorite emollient laden products are: Image's hydrating repair cream and Sweet Blessed Bee Magic Cream. I seriously put the Sweet Blessed cream everywhere. I use it has eye makeup remover, chapstick, hand cream and face cream. I love this product!!
To further alleviate your dry skin, get a hydrating facial!! They can do wonders in 60 minutes!
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
Ingredients to avoid if have a bun in the oven
GIANT DISCLAIMER: I am not a doctor, so any advice I give here, must be discussed with your medical professional.
Lately I've been seeing a lot of women who are newly pregnant or trying to get pregnant and they are experiencing acne for the first time in their life. Ahhhh hormones. This does happen because many women when trying to get pregnant have recently gone off birth control, which cause your hormones to readjust themselves. With that said, a lot of women experience a spike in androgens, which equals more oil production, which equals blemishes. Unfortunately, pregnant ladies cannot use the typical ingredients one would use to fight that dang blasted acne.
The 4 major ingredients to stay away from include:
salicylic acid (usually less than 2% is ok)
glycolic acid (some doctors are ok with this ingredient, some are not- usually mild percentages are acceptable)
retinoids (usually there's no negotiating this one)
Benzoyl Peroxide
The other problem women run into when they have a bun in the oven, is pigmentation. This has been dubbed as pregnancy mask, which manifests as brownish spots on the forehead, above the lip, cheeks, or all of the above.
Note: you don't have to be pregnant to experience this delightful condition. It's hormonally related, so often any flux in hormones can create it. It happens most often after a woman has gone on or off birth control, then goes out in the sun. The jury is still out as to why this happens, but it has been linked to a surge in estrogen.
The usual treatment for this condition is a combination of AHA's ( glycolic acid), hydroquinone, and retinol, and of course sunscreen (because the sun or any light brings it out). However, if you're pregnant you can only use one of those ingredients and that is sunscreen.
hydroquinone is a big no no to use while pregnant, as is retinol, glycolic acid is possible based on your doctor's insight.
So what does a gal do if she's expecting and experiencing breakouts and pigmentation?
There are a few ingredients to work with:
lactic acid- brightening, exfoliating, so it helps with pigmentation and acne
licorice root- helps to stop the pigmentation from reaching the surface of the skin
azelaic acid- (mild percentage) anti-bacterial, lightening and brightening. Great for acne and pigmentation.
willow bark- this is what salicylic is derived from, but a milder version. good for acne
enzymes- bromelain (pineapple) papain (papaya)- these guys work like little pac men to come in and eat the dead skin cells. great for brightening the complexion and helping to prevent acne.
mushroom extract & arbutin- helps to stop pigmentation from reaching the surface.
vitamin c- brightening, mildly exfoliating, and further protects the skin.
some products that contain these ingredients:
Is clinical cleanser
Is clinical white lightening serum
Is clinical active serum
- last I checked the entire IS clinical line was deemed safe for expecting mamas, but I would be nervous to use the Youth Complex by them. Before you buy check with your doctor.
other products:
Image's lightening serum -great for irritation, acne, and pigmentation)
Image's hydrating serum - great hydrator and gives your skin a good dose of vitamin c
Image's enzyme mask- use 1-2 times a week to help with pigmentation and acne
Lately I've been seeing a lot of women who are newly pregnant or trying to get pregnant and they are experiencing acne for the first time in their life. Ahhhh hormones. This does happen because many women when trying to get pregnant have recently gone off birth control, which cause your hormones to readjust themselves. With that said, a lot of women experience a spike in androgens, which equals more oil production, which equals blemishes. Unfortunately, pregnant ladies cannot use the typical ingredients one would use to fight that dang blasted acne.
The 4 major ingredients to stay away from include:
salicylic acid (usually less than 2% is ok)
glycolic acid (some doctors are ok with this ingredient, some are not- usually mild percentages are acceptable)
retinoids (usually there's no negotiating this one)
Benzoyl Peroxide
The other problem women run into when they have a bun in the oven, is pigmentation. This has been dubbed as pregnancy mask, which manifests as brownish spots on the forehead, above the lip, cheeks, or all of the above.
Note: you don't have to be pregnant to experience this delightful condition. It's hormonally related, so often any flux in hormones can create it. It happens most often after a woman has gone on or off birth control, then goes out in the sun. The jury is still out as to why this happens, but it has been linked to a surge in estrogen.
The usual treatment for this condition is a combination of AHA's ( glycolic acid), hydroquinone, and retinol, and of course sunscreen (because the sun or any light brings it out). However, if you're pregnant you can only use one of those ingredients and that is sunscreen.
hydroquinone is a big no no to use while pregnant, as is retinol, glycolic acid is possible based on your doctor's insight.
So what does a gal do if she's expecting and experiencing breakouts and pigmentation?
There are a few ingredients to work with:
lactic acid- brightening, exfoliating, so it helps with pigmentation and acne
licorice root- helps to stop the pigmentation from reaching the surface of the skin
azelaic acid- (mild percentage) anti-bacterial, lightening and brightening. Great for acne and pigmentation.
willow bark- this is what salicylic is derived from, but a milder version. good for acne
enzymes- bromelain (pineapple) papain (papaya)- these guys work like little pac men to come in and eat the dead skin cells. great for brightening the complexion and helping to prevent acne.
mushroom extract & arbutin- helps to stop pigmentation from reaching the surface.
vitamin c- brightening, mildly exfoliating, and further protects the skin.
some products that contain these ingredients:
Is clinical cleanser
Is clinical white lightening serum
Is clinical active serum
- last I checked the entire IS clinical line was deemed safe for expecting mamas, but I would be nervous to use the Youth Complex by them. Before you buy check with your doctor.
other products:
Image's lightening serum -great for irritation, acne, and pigmentation)
Image's hydrating serum - great hydrator and gives your skin a good dose of vitamin c
Image's enzyme mask- use 1-2 times a week to help with pigmentation and acne
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
A word about ingredients...
A lot of people when searching for skin care ingredients fear the ingredient declaration on the back of the product. And rightfully so, it may as well be written Italian. So here is a breakdown of some of the ingredients commonly found in your skin care products. Side note: refer to other posts to get a breakdown of other popular ingredients. In an effort to avoid repeating myself, I won't cover those stellar ingredients in this post. Ok so here we go....
Peptides show up on the ingredient dec as:
Acetyl Hexapeptide- 3 ( also shows up as Argirleline TM). this fella simmers down facial muscles, so they move less. The theory is if muscles move less, less lines show up on the face. This little gem is supposed to be like Botox TM in a bottle. It really isn't anywhere near the caliber of Botox TM, but it does help ease up those expression lines and it works really well to extend the life of your Botox TM treatment.
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide- 4 (also shows up as Matrixyl TM ). This steller feller is becoming known as retinol's sister- meaning it has similar properties as retinol without any of the irritation. This is a great ingredient to be on the prowl for if you're concerned with anti-aging, but have sensitive skin.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide- 7 (also shows up as Rigin TM ). This guy helps to control inflammation. This is good because inflammation ages the skin, so if it's controlled, so are the fine lines, laxity, and dullness that may creep up on your skin as your years creep up.
Minerals:
Copper: anti oxidant- which means your skin is protected to some degree from free radicals. Free radicals age the skin, so you want to be protected from them and they are everywhere. AHHH! This fella also promotes wound healing, so if you want to help your skin to avoid a scar after and injury, use copper!
Selenium- a very potent anti oxidant. Also used to control fungal infections- you'll see it in anti-dandruff shampoos.
Zinc- One of my faves. Offers a great sun protection. It's a physical block between you and the sun. This guy also helps in wound healing and helps to simmer inflammation, so it is great for rosacea prone or acne prone individuals. Honestly everybody can benefit from zinc. loooove zinc.
Others:
Green Tea Extract: potent anti-oxidant. A great guy to have in your skin care. Look for this ingredient in your sunscreen to amp up your sun protection.
Idebenone: Similar to Co-Q-10. Idebenone is more aggressive than Co-Q-10. Both ingredients are potent anti-oxidants, sometimes too potent because some people have found this fella a little too irritating. However, if your skin can tolerate it, it's a great ingredient. This ingredient also helps to lighten pigmentation.
Kinetin- popular in the Kinerase line. This is a plant hormone that helps to protect and regenerate the skin. This is a great option if you're concerned with anti-aging, but your skin is highly sensitive.
Lycopene- a carotenoid that protects the cell. Derived from tomatoes and a great ingredient to be added to your sunscreen.
Reservatrol- Derived from grape's skins. Think wine. This is a great anti oxidant. This guy also calms down inflammation. Woo hoo!
Squalene- derived from sharks and olive oil. This ingredient is designed to match the skin's own sebum and will not clog the pores. This is a great ingredient for acneic skin types who are experiencing extensive dryness due to aggressive skin care products. Also good for dry skin types.
Hyaluronic Acid- A humectant found in are skin naturally. However, as we age we lose oodles of it. Bummer. Babies skin looks so firm and plump due to this magical ingredient. his duded hydrates the skin via water, rather than oil. This is a great ingredient for all skin types!
There are way more ingredients out there, but hopefully this will help you understand your products a bit more. If there is a certain ingredient you have questions on, please don't hesitate to ask. If I don't know the answer, I'll find someone who does. :)
Peptides show up on the ingredient dec as:
Acetyl Hexapeptide- 3 ( also shows up as Argirleline TM). this fella simmers down facial muscles, so they move less. The theory is if muscles move less, less lines show up on the face. This little gem is supposed to be like Botox TM in a bottle. It really isn't anywhere near the caliber of Botox TM, but it does help ease up those expression lines and it works really well to extend the life of your Botox TM treatment.
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide- 4 (also shows up as Matrixyl TM ). This steller feller is becoming known as retinol's sister- meaning it has similar properties as retinol without any of the irritation. This is a great ingredient to be on the prowl for if you're concerned with anti-aging, but have sensitive skin.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide- 7 (also shows up as Rigin TM ). This guy helps to control inflammation. This is good because inflammation ages the skin, so if it's controlled, so are the fine lines, laxity, and dullness that may creep up on your skin as your years creep up.
Minerals:
Copper: anti oxidant- which means your skin is protected to some degree from free radicals. Free radicals age the skin, so you want to be protected from them and they are everywhere. AHHH! This fella also promotes wound healing, so if you want to help your skin to avoid a scar after and injury, use copper!
Selenium- a very potent anti oxidant. Also used to control fungal infections- you'll see it in anti-dandruff shampoos.
Zinc- One of my faves. Offers a great sun protection. It's a physical block between you and the sun. This guy also helps in wound healing and helps to simmer inflammation, so it is great for rosacea prone or acne prone individuals. Honestly everybody can benefit from zinc. loooove zinc.
Others:
Green Tea Extract: potent anti-oxidant. A great guy to have in your skin care. Look for this ingredient in your sunscreen to amp up your sun protection.
Idebenone: Similar to Co-Q-10. Idebenone is more aggressive than Co-Q-10. Both ingredients are potent anti-oxidants, sometimes too potent because some people have found this fella a little too irritating. However, if your skin can tolerate it, it's a great ingredient. This ingredient also helps to lighten pigmentation.
Kinetin- popular in the Kinerase line. This is a plant hormone that helps to protect and regenerate the skin. This is a great option if you're concerned with anti-aging, but your skin is highly sensitive.
Lycopene- a carotenoid that protects the cell. Derived from tomatoes and a great ingredient to be added to your sunscreen.
Reservatrol- Derived from grape's skins. Think wine. This is a great anti oxidant. This guy also calms down inflammation. Woo hoo!
Squalene- derived from sharks and olive oil. This ingredient is designed to match the skin's own sebum and will not clog the pores. This is a great ingredient for acneic skin types who are experiencing extensive dryness due to aggressive skin care products. Also good for dry skin types.
Hyaluronic Acid- A humectant found in are skin naturally. However, as we age we lose oodles of it. Bummer. Babies skin looks so firm and plump due to this magical ingredient. his duded hydrates the skin via water, rather than oil. This is a great ingredient for all skin types!
There are way more ingredients out there, but hopefully this will help you understand your products a bit more. If there is a certain ingredient you have questions on, please don't hesitate to ask. If I don't know the answer, I'll find someone who does. :)
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
Gimme Dat Glow Part Duex
So there are oodles more ingredients out there that can contribute to giving one glowing skin. And I felt somewhat dishonest not posting all of them, or at least more of them, on the last blog, so here comes part duex. Truth be told, if you're not using any of the ingredients mentioned in the last blog or will be mentioned in this blog, and you start using any one of them, you will get dat glow in some form. If you really want to up the glow ante, then use a combination of these glow giving ingredients. Have I used the word glow enough? In the previous blog I talked about AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids); however, AHA has a very important cousin named BHA (beta hydroxy acid). BHA is salicylic acid and anybody who has ever had acne or has watched a Proactive infomercial (a guilty pleasure of mine) has heard of salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is so splendid for acne because it goes in there and helps to purge the pore of the dead skin cells, oil, and bacteria that's in there just waiting to erupt into a large, red nodule. Good times. Salicylic is also exfoliating (which equals glow) and it helps to balance oil production and those struggling with acne, tend to produce more oil than those are blessed with clear skin. Disclaimer: If you have an allergy to aspirin, then this product is not for you, as salicylic is derived from aspirin and if you are pregnant or breast feeding this fella is not your guy. Also when looking at ingredient declarations, salicylic acid shows up as willow bark extract too. In my humble opinion, the two best product containing salicylic acid are: Image's clear cell cleanser and IS Clinical's active serum.- this guy also contains glycolic acid and bearberry (two more glow givers).
My all time favorite ingredient for giving 'dat glow, drum roll please, are: Retinoids (also known as Retin-A, tretinoin). Retinoids are vitamin A. Another version of a Retinoid is Retinol, which is derived from Vitamin A and tends to be less aggressive and is used in over the counter versions of retinol products (ie this version is probably the one used in Loreal's latest and greatest anti-aging cream). If you can tolerate a retinoid or retinol, meaning you're not pregnant, breast feeding, have rosacea, or extremely sensitive skin, you should be on some form of a retinoid/ retinol. period. Why are retinoids so fantastic? So glad you asked. Retinoids essentially teach your skin cells to behave and they stimulate new collagen and elastin- meaning less wrinkles and skin sagging. Retinol and Retinoids are beneficial for dry, acneic, hyperpigmented, and aging skin because they get rid of the old and crusty skin on the surface and bring, healthy, new skin to the top for all of the world to see. Woo hoo! Retinol/ retinoids are very effective, but they can be over used. Many people begin a retinol/retinoid regime and there skin ends up peeling profusely and looking like raw meat. Nobody wins in this scenario because generally one stops using the product and now you would like to go into hiding for a good amount of time. To avoid this scenario, portion control is 50% of the battle- meaning only a pea size and introduce the product slowly (possibly only two nights a week). The other half of the battle: the product formulation. If the product is paired with an emollient (ie shea butter) or a hydrator (ie glycerin or hyaluronic acid), then the irritation factor is cut down significantly. My two favorite retinoid/ retinol products: atralin- this one is rx only and great for oily/acneic skin, but it is very pricey. A great over the counter retinol: Image's Total Retinol A Cream. This guy does his job so well you only need to use him 1-2x a week. Another Disclaimer: You must use sunscreen (preferably zinc based) everyday (even if it's not sunny) when using these products because the sun (even if you can't see it) will try to destroy all of your hard work. There more glow-giving ingredients, but that's all for now.
My all time favorite ingredient for giving 'dat glow, drum roll please, are: Retinoids (also known as Retin-A, tretinoin). Retinoids are vitamin A. Another version of a Retinoid is Retinol, which is derived from Vitamin A and tends to be less aggressive and is used in over the counter versions of retinol products (ie this version is probably the one used in Loreal's latest and greatest anti-aging cream). If you can tolerate a retinoid or retinol, meaning you're not pregnant, breast feeding, have rosacea, or extremely sensitive skin, you should be on some form of a retinoid/ retinol. period. Why are retinoids so fantastic? So glad you asked. Retinoids essentially teach your skin cells to behave and they stimulate new collagen and elastin- meaning less wrinkles and skin sagging. Retinol and Retinoids are beneficial for dry, acneic, hyperpigmented, and aging skin because they get rid of the old and crusty skin on the surface and bring, healthy, new skin to the top for all of the world to see. Woo hoo! Retinol/ retinoids are very effective, but they can be over used. Many people begin a retinol/retinoid regime and there skin ends up peeling profusely and looking like raw meat. Nobody wins in this scenario because generally one stops using the product and now you would like to go into hiding for a good amount of time. To avoid this scenario, portion control is 50% of the battle- meaning only a pea size and introduce the product slowly (possibly only two nights a week). The other half of the battle: the product formulation. If the product is paired with an emollient (ie shea butter) or a hydrator (ie glycerin or hyaluronic acid), then the irritation factor is cut down significantly. My two favorite retinoid/ retinol products: atralin- this one is rx only and great for oily/acneic skin, but it is very pricey. A great over the counter retinol: Image's Total Retinol A Cream. This guy does his job so well you only need to use him 1-2x a week. Another Disclaimer: You must use sunscreen (preferably zinc based) everyday (even if it's not sunny) when using these products because the sun (even if you can't see it) will try to destroy all of your hard work. There more glow-giving ingredients, but that's all for now.
Tuesday, October 26, 2010
Gimme 'dat glow!
Ever see a woman who's skin is literally glowing? I would be willing to bet a good portion of those glowing women are not blessed with good genes, they are, in fact, blessed with good skin care products. For those of you that are blessed with naturally glowing skin, this blog is not for you, and good Lord you are one lucky duck. For the rest of us, fear not, we can fake that glow. One way to get after that glow cleanse or apply a topical that contains AHAs. What are AHAs? They are: glycolic acid- derived from sugar and the most potent and popular because it has the tiniest molecular size, meaning your skin absorbs it extremely well. Great for acne prone, oily, dry, and combination skin. Lactic acid- derived from milk, less aggressive than its brother glycolic, lightening and very hydrating. Great for dry, sensitive and pigmented skin. Malic acid- derived from apples also less aggressive than glycolic. Good for all skin types and conditions. Tartaric acid- derived from grapes. Again, less aggressive than glycolic and good for all skin types and conditions. Citric acid- derived from, you guessed it, citrus fruits. Still less aggressive than glycolic, but I would not use on extremely sensitive skin. Citric acid, like its sister lactic acid, is very lightening and brightening. Last, but not not least, Acetic acid- derived from vinegar and least aggressive of the acids. Great for all skin types and can be especially beneficial on acneic skin conditions. What do AHA's do? They dissolve the glue that holds the dead skin cells to the surface of your skin. This means those dead skin cells that are hanging around making your complexion appear dull, are now skittering off into oblivion. Woo Hoo! Furthermore, with those dead skin cell off of your face any product that you apply on it, penetrates much better because a dead skin cell barrier is now gone. One of my favorite AHA filled cleanser is Glytone's: Mild Gel Wash. One of my favorite AHA topicals is Image's: Total Anti-Aging Serum. However, one does not want to be using any form of AHA without using snscreen because when you are removing that layer of dead skin cells, you are indeed making your skin more sun sensitive, so to get and maintain that glow, one must apply a sunscreen with at least an SPF of 20.
Friday, October 22, 2010
skinspot and mercperks have joined forces
If you live in portland check out skinspot's rad deal : http://post.portlandmercury.com/portland/custom-signature-facial-at-skinspot/Shop?oid=2966460
And.... you still get your supportland points when using this deal. This makes you the big winner!
And.... you still get your supportland points when using this deal. This makes you the big winner!
Monday, October 18, 2010
Got Acne?
Since the ripe age of 15, acne has been my nemesis. I spent many days in high school begging my mom to let me stay home from school in lieu of my multiplying lesions. For a good stretch, I was in the dermatologist's office on a weekly basis. And after years of having sir acne under control he came back in my adult years. How is it fair that one has to deal with wrinkles, sun damage and acne? Welcome to adult acne, an ever growing problem among women older than 25. I have a love/ hate relationship with acne. I hate it for all of the obvious reasons, and I love it because I'm fairly certain without it, my love of skin care would not be what it is today. With that said, I truly understand, the emotional implications acne has on its victims. However, fear not, there are things you can do to tame and eradicate this wild beast. While every skin condition and type is going to require its own customizable routine, there are a few basic ingredients and tips every acne sufferer can benefit from. Ingredients to be on the prowl for: salicylic acid, retinol, glycolic acid, benzyol peroxide, azelaic acid, and hyaluronic acid. There are more ingredients that are beneficial and important, but these are the top contenders. However, if you're pregnant or breast feeding several of those ingredients should not be used, which is particularly tricky because women often experience adult acne during pregnancy and their breast feeding days, due to hormonal changes. In a later entry, I will go over a routine that will be suitable for all of those with a bun in their oven. Things every acne sufferer can do to help eliminate lesions are: wash make-up brushes 2-3 times a week with a mild shampoo or Dr Bronners soap, clean your phone with witch hazel every night and make sure when talking on your cell phone it is not touching your face, don't touch your face unless you're washing it, don't let anybody else touch it either (you feel like a weirdo at first, but it's worth it), have a sacred face towel that nobody but you touches (hide it if necessary), have a towel for your body and a towel for your face (think about it), and change your pillow cases at least twice a week. All of these seem a bit neurotic, but bacteria is major contender in acne, so taking a few precautions to reduce the spreadage ( I think I just made that word up) of it, can make a significant difference in reducing it.
Monday, October 11, 2010
to sunscreen or not to sunscreen?
Now that fall is coming upon on us, many are packing up their sunscreens and putting them in the back of their linen closets. However, just because your days at the beach are up, it doesn't mean you don't need sunscreen on a day-to-day basis, even if you live in Portland. Incidental sun exposure (the sun exposure we get just doing are day-to-day activities) is a major contributor to those little lines and and brown spots we see as we age. People often ask me what is the number one product you would recommend for anti aging and my answer is: you guessed it, sunscreen. It's a lot easier to prevent rather than correct. And given that sun is the number one cause of fine lines and pigmentation, I would use the one tool, that helps to protect you from it. I'm not advocating for one to fear the sun because the sun offers oodles of benefits; I'm simply saying, "work with it." And not all sunscreens are created equal. First and foremost, if it says it offers an spf of 45 or higher, don't be fooled. Anything above an spf of 30 means you're most likely getting more chemicals and the increase in your sunscreen coverage is minimal. With that said, look at the active ingredients in your sunscreen. The only active ingredient I fully support is: Zinc Oxide. Titanium Dioxide is a close second. As for other chemical active ingredients, studies are beginning to find that when these ingredients have been on the skin for a certain period of time, they actually begin to cause free radicals and free radicals are the jerks that take part in giving you your wrinkles and helping your skin to sag. These guys are to be avoided at all costs. Zinc and titanium dioxide are physical sunscreens, meaning they work as a block between your skin and the sun, rather than chemical sunscreens, which absorb the sun's rays. Additionally titanium and zinc are minerals, which help calm down inflammation and inflammation is also a cause in those pesky wrinkles. When looking at a products ingredient declaration look for a zinc or titanium percentage of 8 or higher. Furthermore, if you're prone to rosacea and acne, zinc and titanium reduce the redness in both cases, and the sun aggravates both of these conditions, so you're getting a two-for-one benefit by using a sunscreen with zinc or titanium dioxide. One last thing, to up your sunscreen's ante, get a sunscreen with antioxidants, which are like little warriors helping to protect your skin against free and radicals and, again, free radicals are not your friend. What are some examples of antioxidants? So glad you asked. They are: vitamin c, green tea, white, vitamin e, coffee berry and there are many more, but those are the heavy weights. My favorite sunscreen, that also acts as a moisturizer and it is divine for oily and acne prone skin is: Image's Oil Free Spf 30. I am acne prone and I fear sunscreen as do most acne prone people; however, fear not, this guy goes on like water and alleviates any dehydration my skin may be feeling at the moment. What a fella!!!
Thursday, October 7, 2010
nutrition and skin
As of the last 3 years, I have been constantly reading up on this connection between nutrition and skin. I do think the link between what you eat and your skin is there, but I also believe it varies from person to person and the skin condition they are looking to address. In attempts to eradicate my acne naturally, without using topicals, I ate entirely raw food, I followed a macrobiotic diet, I bought a Vitamix and blended various expensive super foods together, I have done the vegan thing, I have taken every supplement imagineable, and I spent oodles of dollars working with a very smart nutritionist. As a result, my acne remained and the one theme that was present through the different eating patterns is: I obsessed (aka stressed) over every morsel that went into my body, not to mention I felt somewhat isolated from society, because my diet was quite a bit different from what one could find at a typical restaurant and grocery store. Stress is a large culprit in acne and fine lines, so I think my hard work was coming undone with all of my nutrition obsession. I'm not saying, nutrition doesn't hold credence because it does!!! However, it's the obsessing and trying to stay under a label that I would advise against staying away from. Nutrition is one of my favorite topics and I am constantly intrigued by what people are eating on a day to day basis. Food and are relationship to it plays such a critical role in everybody's day-to-day life, that I find myself constantly asking people what do they eat and how do they feel? So, if you feel inclined to share what your diet looks like, please do!!!
Here's what my breakfast looks like:
gluten free grains
spirulina
flax seeds
some fruit
1 cup hemp milk
1cup coffee
cinnamon
stevia
For now, I'm only going to include breakfast because my other meals vary soooo much from day to day, but breakfast stays pretty much the same.
Fine Print: I am not a nutritionist, I just read a lot of books on nutrition, so do what you will with my opinion.:)
Here's what my breakfast looks like:
gluten free grains
spirulina
flax seeds
some fruit
1 cup hemp milk
1cup coffee
cinnamon
stevia
For now, I'm only going to include breakfast because my other meals vary soooo much from day to day, but breakfast stays pretty much the same.
Fine Print: I am not a nutritionist, I just read a lot of books on nutrition, so do what you will with my opinion.:)
Wednesday, September 29, 2010
Portlanders you are needed!!!
All Portlanders sign up for buy with me to get superb deals on all things local. They need more stellar peeps like you fine selves in their database before they can get their fannies in are great city!!!! Here's the link: http://www.buywithme.com/ You officially have no excuse! I'm just sayin'...
Tuesday, September 28, 2010
Second Question I get...
What do you use? Well, I've been known to change my skincare routine as much as I change my pantalones. I use to work for a spa that sold over 100 different skin care lines, so I had a hard time being faithful to any one product. However, my skin paid the price of my ever changing skin care regime. For the past three months I have been extremely loyal to one product line and I have only altered my regime moderately and my skin has never looked better. I am not saying switching up your routine is not a good thing, but switching it every week is not a terrific skin care plan. I currently use and love Image skin care. I'm falling deeply in love with this line because it does exactly what it says it is going to do and there is minimal not-so-terrific ingredients in it. The thing I struggle with in skin care is: I need it to work because I have sassy skin and I am obsessed with perfect skin; however, I also don't want a lot of cancer causing, environment destroying ingredients on moi. This is a difficult battle because there are very few products out there that are truly natural and when I went truly natural with my skin care regime, my age old acne and pigmentation came back. When my skin looks less than optimal, it's all I can focus on and therefore my stress levels sky rocket and at that point, all of the good I'm doing to my skin by going all natural is being eradicated by all of the stress rolling around in my body. Maybe, this is just what I tell myself to make myself feel better for not using only using coconut oil. Maybe. Anyway, now that I've been able to get that off my chest, Here's what I use:
AM Routine- 1 (this is my pre gym routine)
1. Cleanse with Image's Clear Cell cleanser for 1-3 minute (yup, I really do that). Clear cell is such a great cleanser because it has a mild amount of salicylic acid in it, which helps keeps those pores clean. However, salicylic acid can be a bit drying, so some cleansers can leave you a bit parched. This cleanser does not.
2. Image's Oil free sunscreen. This is such a great sunscreen!!! It has only zinc in the sunscreen and it goes on so smooth! It doesn't feel thick and greasy like traditional sunscreens. Yes, I put this on, even though my skin barely gets a chance to see the skin prior to the workout.
AM Routine- 1 (post workout gym)
1. cleanse with clear cell
2. apply Image's bleaching serum- this helps to control pigmentation (ie the giant freckle masses, my skin likes to produce when exposed to the skin). This serum also helps to exfoliate, which makes my skin more sun sensi, so sunscreen is of the up most importance. Also this serum contains hydroquinone, which requires the up most sunscreen diligence. If you're not going to be diligent with sunscreen, do not wear this product in the AM.
3. Apply Image's max creme. This product protects, hydrates, and replenishes nutrients lost. This product is also filled with oodles of peptides, which help with those fine lines everywhere!
4. gallons of Image's oil-free sunscreen!!!
PM Routine
1. Cleanse with clear cell cleanser (1-3 minutes again)
2. Image's bleaching serum- side note with this product- it should not be used for longer than 3 months at a time because of the hydroquinone in it.
3. 2 nights a week- I apply Image's total retinol-a creme. This might be my favorite product ever created. You only need to use it 2x a week, because it's that effective. It makes my skin so soft without any of the excessive peeling and redness most retinols do. I'v used several retinol products, prescription and otherwise, and I've never experienced one that works this well.
4. On the nights when I don't apply the retinol creme, I apply, Image's Max creme.
I know there is not any vitamin C in my routine, which is something I recommend in my previous posts; however, there are several antioxidants in my sunscreen and the max creme is full of protection induced ingredients, that I've opted to forgo the Vitamin C for the moment. I am trying to keep my routine as simple as possible to ensure the great ingredients I do put on my skin can do their job.
AM Routine- 1 (this is my pre gym routine)
1. Cleanse with Image's Clear Cell cleanser for 1-3 minute (yup, I really do that). Clear cell is such a great cleanser because it has a mild amount of salicylic acid in it, which helps keeps those pores clean. However, salicylic acid can be a bit drying, so some cleansers can leave you a bit parched. This cleanser does not.
2. Image's Oil free sunscreen. This is such a great sunscreen!!! It has only zinc in the sunscreen and it goes on so smooth! It doesn't feel thick and greasy like traditional sunscreens. Yes, I put this on, even though my skin barely gets a chance to see the skin prior to the workout.
AM Routine- 1 (post workout gym)
1. cleanse with clear cell
2. apply Image's bleaching serum- this helps to control pigmentation (ie the giant freckle masses, my skin likes to produce when exposed to the skin). This serum also helps to exfoliate, which makes my skin more sun sensi, so sunscreen is of the up most importance. Also this serum contains hydroquinone, which requires the up most sunscreen diligence. If you're not going to be diligent with sunscreen, do not wear this product in the AM.
3. Apply Image's max creme. This product protects, hydrates, and replenishes nutrients lost. This product is also filled with oodles of peptides, which help with those fine lines everywhere!
4. gallons of Image's oil-free sunscreen!!!
PM Routine
1. Cleanse with clear cell cleanser (1-3 minutes again)
2. Image's bleaching serum- side note with this product- it should not be used for longer than 3 months at a time because of the hydroquinone in it.
3. 2 nights a week- I apply Image's total retinol-a creme. This might be my favorite product ever created. You only need to use it 2x a week, because it's that effective. It makes my skin so soft without any of the excessive peeling and redness most retinols do. I'v used several retinol products, prescription and otherwise, and I've never experienced one that works this well.
4. On the nights when I don't apply the retinol creme, I apply, Image's Max creme.
I know there is not any vitamin C in my routine, which is something I recommend in my previous posts; however, there are several antioxidants in my sunscreen and the max creme is full of protection induced ingredients, that I've opted to forgo the Vitamin C for the moment. I am trying to keep my routine as simple as possible to ensure the great ingredients I do put on my skin can do their job.
Monday, September 27, 2010
what should my skin care routine include?
This is probably the question I hear the most. And honestly, everybody's skin care routine is going to look a little different. However, if we're going for an overall general routine, I would say everybody should incorporate a cleanser, a vitamin c product, a retinol product, a sunscreen, and moisturizer, if needed. Here's how the routine would look:
AM Routine
1. cleanse- if you have acne, oily, or are acne prone, use a cleanser with a mild salicylic acid in it; if you're dry use a creamier cleanser. Cleanse for 1-3 minutes. No, I'm not joking.
2. apply vitamin c- if you have acne, are oilier, or acne prone go with a serum based vitamin c, if you're dry you could use a cream with a vitamin c in it to eliminate an additional moisturizing step.
3. sunscreen- spf 15 or 30 will suffice as long as its a zinc based sunscreen. What do I mean by zinc? zinc based means you're getting your sun protection from zinc oxide instead of chemicals like: oxybenzone, avobenzone. A sunscreen is a necessity when using a retinol, as the retinol is going to make your skin more sun sensitive and you don't want to damage that new skin the retinol is helping to bring out.
PM routine
1. Pre cleanse- remove make up with an oil-based cleanser, or simply wipe make-up off with wet cotton pads. Even if you do not wear a ton make-up this step is important, because it allows your cleanser to do its job: cleanse your skin.
2. cleanse- cleanse with the same cleanser in the am for at least 1-3 minutes- Again!!!
3. apply a retinol based product- this could be a prescription based retinol or over the counter.
4. moisturizer- oil based moisturizer if you're dry, water based if you're acneic, oily, or acne-prone.
Why use a Retinol? Retinol helps you look younger by exfoliating the top layer of your skin and helps to stimulate new collagen and elastin. You want new collagen and elastin because those are the guys (when broken) that are responsible for sagging skin and wrinkles. Retinol also teaches your skin cells to behave, so those with acne benefit oodles from this.
Why use a Vitamin C? Vitamin C helps to brighten the complexion, mildly exfoliates, and protects the skin against free radicals. Free radicals are the devils that age the skin, so you want as many shields against them as you can and vitamin c is a good place to start.
Fine Print: I am not a dermatologist, so this is not medical advice I am dispersing. However, I am a skin obsessed aesthetician.
Please let me know if you have any questions regarding this post or any other questions that might be rolling around your noggin'.
AM Routine
1. cleanse- if you have acne, oily, or are acne prone, use a cleanser with a mild salicylic acid in it; if you're dry use a creamier cleanser. Cleanse for 1-3 minutes. No, I'm not joking.
2. apply vitamin c- if you have acne, are oilier, or acne prone go with a serum based vitamin c, if you're dry you could use a cream with a vitamin c in it to eliminate an additional moisturizing step.
3. sunscreen- spf 15 or 30 will suffice as long as its a zinc based sunscreen. What do I mean by zinc? zinc based means you're getting your sun protection from zinc oxide instead of chemicals like: oxybenzone, avobenzone. A sunscreen is a necessity when using a retinol, as the retinol is going to make your skin more sun sensitive and you don't want to damage that new skin the retinol is helping to bring out.
PM routine
1. Pre cleanse- remove make up with an oil-based cleanser, or simply wipe make-up off with wet cotton pads. Even if you do not wear a ton make-up this step is important, because it allows your cleanser to do its job: cleanse your skin.
2. cleanse- cleanse with the same cleanser in the am for at least 1-3 minutes- Again!!!
3. apply a retinol based product- this could be a prescription based retinol or over the counter.
4. moisturizer- oil based moisturizer if you're dry, water based if you're acneic, oily, or acne-prone.
Why use a Retinol? Retinol helps you look younger by exfoliating the top layer of your skin and helps to stimulate new collagen and elastin. You want new collagen and elastin because those are the guys (when broken) that are responsible for sagging skin and wrinkles. Retinol also teaches your skin cells to behave, so those with acne benefit oodles from this.
Why use a Vitamin C? Vitamin C helps to brighten the complexion, mildly exfoliates, and protects the skin against free radicals. Free radicals are the devils that age the skin, so you want as many shields against them as you can and vitamin c is a good place to start.
Fine Print: I am not a dermatologist, so this is not medical advice I am dispersing. However, I am a skin obsessed aesthetician.
Please let me know if you have any questions regarding this post or any other questions that might be rolling around your noggin'.
Thursday, September 23, 2010
Intro
Hello all skin enthusiasts! This is the first of many blogs to revolve around skin and how to make it as beautiful as possible. Because beautiful skin is more than what products one uses, this blog will cover oodles of topics. If there are certain topics or questions you would like answered please do not hesitate to ask! Skin is my favorite topic, so ask away!
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